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April 13, 2009
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POD: A Petticoat Tutorial by tanmei POD: A Petticoat Tutorial by tanmei
11/10/10 - By request I have made the preview image larger.

3/8/10 - The companion to this tutorial, the P.O.D. FABRIC CALCULATOR v0.1, is now available here! [link]
It should help you determine (roughly) how much fabric you are looking at purchasing and is intended as a supplement to this tutorial :)
---
A tutorial for my white net petticoat (affectionately known as my P.O.D. - "petticoat of doom") made at the request of :iconravenwing136:

Includes instructions on making/drafting petticoats of nearly any size, and all the mathematical workings of my head, so you can have a petti of perfect proportions, at a price that isn't preposterous :lol:

Ideal for lolita, 50's retro, a majestic ballgown or a crazy costume. Haven't tried a longer one yet, but I'd sure like to.

Excuse my terrible painting skills, there's only so much you can do with a pencil in Photoshop with my skills.

Please download and feel free to use (for your own personal use only, not to make profits please =P)

I know it's a huge picture, but I'll hopefully be putting it into PDF soon. I've tried to reduce it as much as possible without compromising on quality.

If you do create anything using this tutorial, please send me a link to it! I'd love to see it (and see proof that this works).
---
And lastly, if you do :+fav: this, take a moment to leave a comment. Just a moment.

I'd like to see how I can improve my tutorials, this is my first proper one for clothing :)
Add a Comment:
 
:iconmeleoraorkali:
MeleoraOrkali Featured By Owner Jan 11, 2014
Thanks a lot !
Reply
:iconbleuumscarlett:
BleuumScarlett Featured By Owner Oct 28, 2013  Hobbyist General Artist
Yay! a tutorial in cm! I'm French Canadian and I also use cm, but I can usually only find American tutorials online that only use inches and yards x.x 

That tutorial is SO much clearer than the previous I found (and tried). Even if it was in French, it wasn't clear at all, with no pictures to explain better some complicated parts, it didn't have maths/ratios and seriously, I just did whatever I thought would work out. And my petticoat has no poof whatsoever. 

So i'll try yours, hoping it will work out best, with close to no sewing skills ^^' Also thanks for the links to how to make ruffles! Since I'm self-teaching myself right now, nobody ever showed me how before I tried (and failed) my first petticoat x). 
Thank you again! :D
Reply
:iconpeacherine:
Peacherine Featured By Owner Aug 5, 2013  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Hi! Thank you so much for this tutorial! I already knew the general idea of making petticoats, but needed ratios and general measurements (and confirmation that I was doing it right!) The tutorial itself is easy to read and the picture captions are useful.

But after making the whole thing, I can say two things: 1- I now know why you called it the petticoat of DOOM :dead: and 2- I never really want to make one again!! I think I've fainted.  Mine was supposed to be a 5-tier floor-length one. It ended up a little shorter because of general imcompetance and impatience, but puffs out my circle skirts beautifully. The sight of about 10 yards of tulle covering my living room was pretty amusing also~

Thank you for sharing!
Reply
:iconwickedfirearcher:
WickedFireArcher Featured By Owner Mar 2, 2013
I hope it was you that added this to tumblr, otherwise someone took it and posted it on another site.
Reply
:icontanmei:
tanmei Featured By Owner Mar 4, 2013  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
I don't have a Tumblr, so it wasn't me.
Are you able to send me a link to the offending site? I don't mind if it's shared on Tumblr but if someone is claiming this work as their own I would like to know.
Reply
:iconpassthemustard:
PassTheMustard Featured By Owner Aug 1, 2013  Student General Artist
Reply
:iconinnamode:
Innamode Featured By Owner Jan 3, 2013  Hobbyist General Artist
Wow, thank you! I will use this tutorial to make a petticoat for my doll ^.^
Reply
:iconsnakefang101:
Snakefang101 Featured By Owner Dec 3, 2012
Can you do a bell shaped tutorial? I can't afford to get a bell petti for my OTT sweet lolita style
Reply
:iconviolingoddess:
ViolinGoddess Featured By Owner Nov 14, 2012
I LOVE your work and your tutorials! I've been hooked on checking in with your work ever since the "Enchanted Willows" gown!!

As for your your tutorials, I can tell you as someone with severe ADD, you explained things very directly and concisely (which is major points for ADDers)!! Learning disabilities suck, but you made this (horrific math included) understandable. It's all about the STEP-BY-STEP that makes it work!
Thanks!!

Violin Goddess
~Goddess Couture~
Reply
:iconcarolinecherry:
CarolineCherry Featured By Owner Sep 16, 2012  Professional Photographer
Best petticoat tutorial I've seen yet. I had it all in my head but it was good to see your maths because that's the bit I was confused about :p
Reply
:iconmooing-duckerberry:
mooing-duckerberry Featured By Owner Jun 27, 2012  Hobbyist Traditional Artist
And another question (sorry)... Will several layers of a tiered petticoat give the huge, rounded skirt? Does it work to later a shorter petticoat over a long one for more poof at the top, or does that ruin the shape? Is there a way to sew the full ball gown skirts without putting hoops under them, or is that just wishful thinking on my part?
*Desperately trying to avoid purchasing hoop materials in addition to massive quantities of fabric*
Reply
:icontanmei:
tanmei Featured By Owner Jun 28, 2012  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
No problem, you can never ask too many questions.

I can't really answer your first question as I haven't tried that myself, sorry. It's likely that it will. You're just going to need a lot of fabric. Simplicity pattern 5006 has some patterns for floor-length petticoats, which you could add more ruffles to.

In response to your second question, I'd wear the long petticoat over the shorter one, and layering them up will definitely create more poof at the top, and the shape will be fine as the weight of the long one would squish down the short one.

For full, bell-shaped skirts I would recommend using a hoopskirt along with a thinner petticoat, instead of layers and layers of fabric. I've made a hoopskirt once - it took a while. I didn't have proper hoop materials and just used wire to make the hoops. Later on, I just bought a hoopskirt on eBay, as the one I made was very heavy. The petticoat is worn mainly to cover the lines caused by the hoops of the hoopskirt, and this does not have to be tulle.

If you don't want to have a hoop, you'll probably have to use at least 10-20 layers of tulle/net to get the desired effect. In one book I read, it said to cut the tulle into full circles, like a full circle skirt, to make all the layers. I think quite a bit of fabric is wasted that way.

As nylon netting is a bit stiffer than tulle, you could use 3-4 layers of that in the under-layers so you don't have to use as many layers of tulle to achieve fullness. Just make a lining, as nylon net doesn't feel very nice against the skin :)

Some links:
[link]
[link]
[link]
Reply
:iconmooing-duckerberry:
mooing-duckerberry Featured By Owner Jun 27, 2012  Hobbyist Traditional Artist
This is fantastic, thank you so much for posting it!
I've recently become fascinated with the idea of sewing ballgowns (for no good reason... I hate wearing such things, but the skill and artistry of them is incredibly). It's been rather difficult to find decent patterns and tutorials online. This one is very helpful.
Any idea as to where I should search for instructions on draping, ruffling, and beadwork on skirts?
Reply
:icontanmei:
tanmei Featured By Owner Jun 27, 2012  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Thanks for your comment :)
I like sewing ballgowns and costumes

I would recommend purchasing the book "The Party Dress" by Simon Henry - that has great instructions for making your own special occasion gowns, and features four dresses - two with very full skirts.

I'm mainly self-taught, so a lot of my draping comes from experimentation and modification of commercial sewing patterns. Books on wedding gowns and corsetry have been extremely helpful. Try your local library in the crafts section.

For ruffles, if you can get a ruffler foot for your sewing machine, you can make lots of ruffles really fast. (My machine is too old for a ruffler foot so I haven't used one...)

Here are some devArt tutorials on ruffles...
[link]
[link]

As for beadwork...I'm only just getting into it myself, as I'm working on a beaded bodice at the moment. You'll probably need a beading needle (slightly longer and thinner than a regular needle)...and a heap of time and patience.
Reply
:iconsourismini:
sourismini Featured By Owner May 21, 2012
my gosh....sewing does look complicated
Reply
:iconjunkosaotome:
JunkoSaotome Featured By Owner May 20, 2012  Hobbyist General Artist
I'm going to try this soon for my Anthy himemiya costume! :D
Reply
:iconsugar-noir:
sugar-NOIR Featured By Owner Jan 12, 2012
Love this tutorial! It is by far my favorite!
Reply
:iconpoisonous-van1ty:
poisonous-van1ty Featured By Owner Nov 3, 2011
This. this is amazing <3. It will give my kotekote lolita JSK a WHOLE lot more poof than any other pettis would, and who doesn't love a super poofy kotekote JSK? :'D
Reply
:iconaiika:
Aiika Featured By Owner Aug 29, 2011  Student General Artist
Actually I was searching for a petticoat tutorial to do my next cosplay, the alice madness returns steampunk dress? I think it'd work nicelly.. do you think i'm wrong?
Reply
:icontankitha:
Tankitha Featured By Owner Aug 12, 2011  Student Artist
What ratio did you use for (waist):(actual fabric gathered in to waist)? I hope that makes sense. I'm bad at putting things into words.
Reply
:icontanmei:
tanmei Featured By Owner Aug 17, 2011  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Usually I use a ratio of 1:3, where 1 is (waist) and 3 is (fabric gathered to waist).

Mostly I just go with a length of 3 metres for the waist, sometimes up to 4 metres. :)
Reply
:iconscreamingangies27:
ScreamingAngies27 Featured By Owner Aug 5, 2011
Dear God, I cannot understand this at all xD I ju-... ack. my brain will not work
Reply
:iconacetherabbit:
AceTheRabbit Featured By Owner Mar 26, 2011
Very useful ^^

I want to point out though that, for the most part, if you are going to be wearing a pettycoat for any long period of time, tulle is better. Not only is it much more comfortable, but nylon can give you a plasticy-shine to your petticoat if you're not careful and doesn't flow as naturaly because of the stiffness. You can get plenty of fluff with tulle; it just requires more fabric.
Of course, this is my own opinion, and if you like nylon better, then use it ^^
Reply
:icontanmei:
tanmei Featured By Owner Mar 27, 2011  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
I like using tulle better myself than nylon net, but at the time of writing this tutorial, I was unemployed, and on a strict budget when it came to costuming.

For the price of buying nearly 20 metres of tulle, I'd seriously be prepared to buy a ready-made petticoat, rather than try and spend the time gathering billions of yards of tulle...

You've reminded me that I really need to update this tutorial :hug:
Reply
:iconacetherabbit:
AceTheRabbit Featured By Owner Mar 27, 2011
I know how that feels, and you have a point. Tulle is pretty expensive.
Reply
:iconkyriea:
Kyriea Featured By Owner Feb 4, 2011
This is just FANTASTIC! Thank you so much! <3 I've been looking to make/buy a petticoat for my cosplays, as the one I've got is way too long for my skirts. (And I'm tired of rolling it up and watching ti fall!)
Reply
:iconviolingoddess:
ViolinGoddess Featured By Owner Oct 10, 2010
Is there no other size for this image available? In the size that it is in currently is too small to read your instructions!!

Violin Goddess
Reply
:icontanmei:
tanmei Featured By Owner Oct 11, 2010  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Can you click the download link?
I will put it bigger in the preview if you like, but it will take longer to load ^^;
Reply
:iconmangimi:
mangimi Featured By Owner Sep 20, 2010
although the writing is a touch small in places, this will seriously help me to make my little sister's halloween costume! (lolita-themed)
thank you so much!
Reply
:iconmishyooona:
MishYooona Featured By Owner Jul 20, 2010  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
thank you, this is just perfect! I'm going to try making a three tier three layer petticoat! It was so nice of you to take the time to make this :)
Reply
:iconmim-chan13:
mim-chan13 Featured By Owner Jun 2, 2010
Very nice! :giggle:
Reply
:iconlollipop-louise:
Lollipop-Louise Featured By Owner May 15, 2010
Wonderful, but a bit difficult to read.
Reply
:icondevils-dancefloor:
Devils-Dancefloor Featured By Owner Apr 14, 2010   Traditional Artist
Would it work well to add a 1 or 2 cm rim underneath the petti in a softer fabric, or do I need a specific fabric to avoid it becoming too heavy?

Will be trying this tutorial myself, but it's going to take me eons of time to show results unless I sew 20 hours a day. ;o;
Reply
:icontanmei:
tanmei Featured By Owner Apr 14, 2010  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Could you explain a bit further about what you mean by a rim? Is that a thin strip attached to the bottom of the petticoat or is that a lining for the inside of the petticoat? :-? I'm not 100% sure what you mean.

But I'd say as long as the waist was held up nice and firmly (think zip, hooks/eyes or nice belt elastic), you could probably get away with using any light to medium weight fabric. :)
Reply
:icondevils-dancefloor:
Devils-Dancefloor Featured By Owner Apr 14, 2010   Traditional Artist
Yeah, the thin strip would be attached to the bottom. xD I dunno, I think that if I'd just leave it the way it is it'd look a bit messy or something under a brown, velvetty skirt. Will try and get a medium/light fabric then.
Reply
:icontanmei:
tanmei Featured By Owner Apr 15, 2010  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
You could always put bias binding around the bottom edge to neaten it up. That will cover the whole raw seam, and you can get cotton or satin depending on what colour you want. :)
Reply
:iconanimegirlofthedark:
AnimeGirlOfTheDark Featured By Owner Apr 11, 2010
Wouldn't stiff itchy tulle work just as well?
Reply
:icontanmei:
tanmei Featured By Owner Apr 12, 2010  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
That's what I use :) Stiff itchy tulle = nylon net. :)

Bridal tulle (the finer, nicer stuff that drapes better) won't work here unless you use billions of layers.

Hope that helped. :thumbsup:
Reply
:iconanimegirlofthedark:
AnimeGirlOfTheDark Featured By Owner Apr 12, 2010
Thank you very much! ^_^
Reply
:iconnaomi-ai:
naomi-ai Featured By Owner Apr 4, 2010  Hobbyist General Artist
Fantastic tutorial! I love lolita fashion and I am in the process of designing a dress (which I will hopefully start making this summer) and this tutorial is just the tutorial I needed for making a petticoat. I will make sure to take lots photos when I do make it and send you some links.
Reply
:icontanmei:
tanmei Featured By Owner Apr 4, 2010  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Thanks!
I'd love to see your design/finished dress/petticoat. :) Good luck with your project :thumbsup:
Reply
:iconnaomi-ai:
naomi-ai Featured By Owner Apr 5, 2010  Hobbyist General Artist
I decided on a skirt instead of a dress :) Here's my design [link]

I'd love to know what you think :dance:

I will make sure to send you pics of the petticoat when I get to make it and of the finished skirt and petticoat :love:
Reply
:icontangletail:
tangletail Featured By Owner Mar 27, 2010
This tutorial is great! I want to make one for my choir dress so im going to try with your tutorial. Thanks for putting this up!
Reply
:icontanmei:
tanmei Featured By Owner Mar 28, 2010  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
No problem :) Good luck with that!
Reply
:iconchiime:
Chiime Featured By Owner Mar 1, 2010  Student Digital Artist
This is a great tutorial : D I'm actually halfway through of making a double layer, tree tiered one. I've got one little question, though; I only have a sewing machine, and I'm unsure of what to use to attach the bottom tier to the second tier (and so on). I was thinking a middle length&width zig zag stitch would be best, but what would you recommend?

Thanks <3!!
Reply
:icontanmei:
tanmei Featured By Owner Mar 3, 2010  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Thanks! (And thanks so much for trusting me enough to try this =P)

I haven't actually had to sew zigzag on my sewing machine for a while...but I guess when I used to overcast edges I'd probably put the stitch length on 2 (Mine only goes to 4, and I wouldn't put it any higher than 2.5) and the zigzag on 4 (that's the widest on my machine) so the zigzag goes over the edge, sort of "overlocking" it without the overlocker.

You may have to tweak a little, since I doubt you have the same machine as me, but I would suggest after you find a zigzag you're happy with, I'd reinforce the join with a 2-2.5 stitch length down the middle of the zigzag. :) Hope that helped.
Reply
:iconmarbels:
marbels Featured By Owner Feb 3, 2010  Hobbyist General Artist
Whoo, a tutorial that might actually work, and it has PICTURES! :lol:

I need one for a costume for my graduation party, but they're so expensive! I hope I can get my mum to make this fore me, since I probably would sew in my own finger or something =P

Thanks for letting us use this!:aww:
Reply
:iconlittle-n-chan:
Little-N-Chan Featured By Owner Jan 16, 2010   Artisan Crafter
I've been looking around for different tutorials for lolita clothing, and I have to say that this is the best one for petticoats. Firstly, your petticoat looks the best! :blowkiss: Your instructions are so clear that there is no room left for doubts. And I love it when people put in equations, or anything, that shows that they know what they're doing. The maths also made it easier to follow! :nod:

Thanks for making this! :clap:
Reply
:icontanmei:
tanmei Featured By Owner Jan 20, 2010  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Thankyou very much. And thank you for the :+fav: <3

I was pretty good at maths when I wrote that tutorial. And I do try to put detail in my works, usually too much!

I do endorse that maths and sewing go together well :)
Reply
:iconlittle-n-chan:
Little-N-Chan Featured By Owner Jan 21, 2010   Artisan Crafter
You're very welcome! :nod:

I agree, you need maths for sewing... in fact, you need for it almost anything! It's a bit sad when someone can't work out a really simple thing. Like today, I had 2 exams, one straight after the other. The second paper was 90 minutes and It began at 15:26. The examiner worked out that it would finish at 16:51... And she got another examiner to check and they both agreed... very sad... especially since 2 examiners can't even work out the time correctly! :P
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